Escape for a Day, Stay for Three Nights.

 It’s happened on my travels before. I’ll head to a destination with the intention of staying for only a day or one night and find myself extending the stay. There are certain places that have that appeal, an energy that is impossible to turn away from.  Some places are worth the cancellation fee, the discomfort of wearing the same wardrobe for days, or missing an absolute must-see that was once etched into the itinerary.

  

On day two in Guatemala, I had only spent 20 hours in Antigua. That’s barely enough time to experience the small town in daylight and already I was heading for the hills. The Earth Lodge is infamous among backpackers as a place to lay in a hammock, devour the avocados they grow on the farm or star gaze with the distant view of Antigua sprawled below Volcán de Fuego. For most of the visitors, the exerting part of their stay is in the five minute hike up the steep hill in order to catch the shuttle back to Antigua. For others it can be a safe haven 6,000 feet above sea level to hike the dusty trails that pass through forests and the square tin houses that belong to residents of El Hotal.

Perhaps it was her British charm but when I was presented with the opportunity to spend a night in the dorm lodge by Emma, one of the lovely receptionists, I jumped at the chance. This was despite the fact that I only brought my daypack and had already booked two more nights at El Hostal in Antigua. Luckily, Emma coordinated with El Hostal to have my backpack picked up by the shuttle driver and they were nice enough to cancel my reservation. When does that ever happen? (the answer: almost never).

After Emma explained the map of the trails around the mountain, I set off to immediately take a few wrong turns. As usual, heading in the wrong direction proved to be the best mistake I could have made.

In just a few steps I met the first of many beautiful children that live in El Hotal. 

The few basic words I knew in Spanish made no difference when interacting with these children. The best form of communication was the camera in my hand, a smile and a high-five (who in this world doesn’t love to receive a high-five?). As I passed by houses, children would run up and I’d be greeted with a warm, “Hola!” Some would simply ask for a photo or wait for me to do the asking. Other children would ask for a dero first and when I said no, they still wanted a photo taken of them.

I continued on with my hike, passing by men with heavy stacks of wood loaded on their backs while they swung a machete by their side, and women carrying a baby in their arms while perfectly balancing a load of laundry on their heads. Although the men and women in El Hotal are generally very friendly, it was clear the children provide the energy that make this community a unique place in Guatemala.  

During a second hike in the afternoon, I headed towards the center of the community where the church and school were located. This is also the crossroad where the road dips downhill towards Antigua. Many children and their families seemed to be leaving the area. At the time I assumed this meant school was finished for the day, forgetting that it was summer in Guatemala. There were two boys at the side of the road who were giggling as I passed by, one of them shouted, “photo” and I nodded before taking a quick shot. When I showed them the photo they giggled some more. Later on, thanks my impeccable sense of direction, I found myself passing these boys in the same place once again. This time they were hanging off a fence like a couple of monkeys. I snapped another photo of the scene and they ran towards me to view the results. Before I would let them see the photo I asked them for a high-five, then a low-five, to the side and then up high. Being 5’8” this meant my hand was way up high forcing them to run and jump only to miss the target. This game lasted awhile, eventually one of the boys got the idea to have his friend hoist him onto his back and finally reach my hand. If it wasn't getting dark I could have played with these boys for ages, instead I asked if I could take a photo with them before finding my way back to the Earth Lodge.

At the lodge, I shared my experience with Emma and another receptionist, Rebecca, both who volunteered to teach ESL at the school. It turns out the two boys I had played with weren’t enrolled at the school. In order for a child to be enrolled they must provide their birth certificate which involves a trip to Guatemala City, a costly and timely task some families can't commit to. A few years ago the Guatemalan government bought the school which was actually built by the community. The government has marked its stamp by providing some of the resources, such as building cement walls to separate the classrooms, however leaving a two foot gap between the ceilings. There’s still a need for improvement and as a result children in the community are missing out. Some children are enrolled in school as late as thirteen years old. By this time the experience of starting late and being taught among children younger than them can become far too frustrating for them to gain the necessary motivation. Rebecca and the organization she volunteered for have worked to launch a pre-school program so the children can begin their education earlier on.

  

The next morning, two other girls and I went with Rebecca to help out with the summer camp program she ran. We watched these kids be kids, playing board games while begging to use the computers instead, splattering paint on themselves as they painted rocks outside, cheering on the girls while they defeated the boys in a game of basketball. Sure the view at the Earth Lodge blew my mind, but as it turned out getting to know who lives at the heart of this community was a much better excuse to extend my stay.

To find out more about El Hotal please visit: http://elhatoschool.blogspot.com/

Guess Who's Back?

Reviving my travel blog is an idea that has been stuck in my head for ages. I've dropped it the same way a child would drop a super cool arcade game for the next great distraction.

Blogs are hard work. There's a fine art behind it and when you are on the road dealing with the 'elements' - the constant battle for a solid internet connection, a fellow travelers' invite to grab a beer, or the will to be fully immersed in your current destination, absorbing each experience like a sponge because who knows when you'll return next. Quite frankly there's a lot to learn on these adventures - lessons of hilarity, lessons of inspiration and lessons that have resulted in a repeated number of face palms. Each mile clocked earns more than the bragging rights in my books. It's the personal growth, the simple connections found in the unexpected pockets of the earth. I cannot excuse my neglect on the road but I do know there are certain stories that are worth the effort to share. 

Before I know it, I'll be boarding the plane for my next backpacking adventure to Latin America.  All my nerves of fear and excitement are building up like a tropical superstorm, eager to unleash itself on whatever path may pull it forward. As I told my friends and family that my one-way plane ticket to Guatemala was officially booked, I was unsure whether to dread or embrace their reactions. 

There are those who are completely envious in a good way, they are excited about the adventure and wish they could go themselves. Four months of backpacking in a tropical paradise without a set itinerary is a dream come true. Then, there are those who think I'm crazy. Simply put, Latin America has a horrible reputation. Just take a look at the travel advisories for Guatemala posted by the Government of Canada and you'll probably agree with these people. 

The website states, "There is no nationwide advisory in affect for Guatemala. However, you should exercise a high degree of caution due to the violence, roadblocks, strikes and demolitions that occur periodically throughout the country." 

Exercising caution and a having a solid sense of the places I plan to visit is of course extremely important. But isn't this the attitude every traveler should have no matter where in the world they find themselves? Incidents are bound to happen anywhere at any time. Prepare for the worst case scenario, but don't be afraid to leave your hobbit-hole.

     Taken at the promotional booth for The Hobbit at Word on the Street in Toronto. 

I've picked the brains of a number of backpackers who have visited this part of the world, from solo female travelers just like me to 6'1" males who have traveled with a few mates. In the majority of their experiences the good has outweighed the bad. When bad situations did occur they usually blamed it on their own lack of common sense at the time. At home or on the road, when you’re busy living in the moment it’s easy to forget the basic ‘rules’ of survival. In one instance their best advice was not to beware of harmful locals but to beware of fellow travelers who feel they can escape the consequences of their actions in a foreign country.

The most valued opinion I've received is from Latin Americans currently living in Canada. The first bit of information I’m usually told, “We’re super friendly.” Second bit of advice, “Don’t depend on a good internet connection.” Great, the battle to travel blog begins again.  

Guess who's back?

... Ashley's back. Tell your friends :)