Sunday, July 12, 2009

Day Two: Exploring London with a friend


Bet you'll never guess what this is...
Alarm set for: 8:00 am
Wake-up time: 8:30 am

They have a breakfast of champions at St. Christopher’s Village: toast with orange marmalade, cereal such as square wheat things, corn flakes, watered down juice, tea and instant coffee... but hey it’s free. So if you’re on a budget like me you’ll wake up before 10:30 am and stock up on corn flakes.

It wasn’t until 11 am that my tour guide Jeremey, a fellow Canadian living just outside of London, showed up in front of my hostel with a curled moustache and a City of London guidebook, marked with sights to see. I was planning on exploring London entirely on my own, so when my dad emailed me Jeremey’s contact details I hesitated... did I really want to spend the day with someone I’ve never met? But Jeremey was nice enough to come along for the adventure, we got along smashingly, and I would not have had such great time alone (even if he had to refer to the guidebook every ten seconds... kidding Jeremey!)




Tip for solo travellers: Do some exploring on your own, but don’t forget to make an effort to meet new people. They make great travel buddies and may show you something you wouldn't have thought to explore on your own.



We decided to go on our own walking tour with recommendations from the guidebook and Jeremey’s superiour knowledge of the city. Our starting point was Southwark Cathedral located on the southern bank of River Thames. We entered Shakespeare’s Globe curious to see how much we could see without paying for a tour... not much. ‘Romeo and Juliet’ and ‘As You Like It’ were the performances playing at the time. I really wanted to see ‘Romeo and Juliet’ but it was sold out for the week. Jeremey and I were surprised because there are 700 standing seats (£ 5 each) per performance. That’s a lot of sold out tickets!

First pint of the day: Noon at the Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese (re-built in 1667) we stumbled upon it by accident. I was drawn to the dark alleyway, round medieval sign and the word Cheese in the name. Its a dingy yet cozy bar with just a few drunks getting an early start to the day. Samuel Smith's Old Brewery Bitter (English Ale 4.0% abv) is the BEST pint I’ve ever had. It was smooth, delicious, and went down like a vanilla sundae.



We started to hit up the major attractions heading across the Millennium Bridge to St. Paul’s Cathedral which was re-built in 1080, after the London fire and fact number two: it sits on the highest point in London (which is not very high at all). We stepped in for a gander but again, refused to pay admission. We only got a few feet into the main entrance, although we were tempted to just hop over the guard rail while no one was looking.






Bridge crossing is a popular sport in London, there are about seven that cross over the River Thames. So we crossed another one back to the South side. I recommend crossing bridges often, the views are amazing and zig-zagging about will give you lots of exercise.

Be bold and hop on the London Eye for £13.00 to see spectacular views of the city including Windsor Castle from the top on a crystal clear day. However, if you’re on a budget like me you will settle for the views of London on the ground. The London Eye kept popping up at different points in the city, from every angle the view of the structure is incredible. At times I could see more than one historical structure towering over the urban jungle of trees and buildings.







Tip: Don’t forget to take in the view in front of you but every once in awhile look back. The view could be even better.



There were a number of entertaining buskers near the London Eye. My favourite was Captain Jack Sparrow who thought I was taking a photo and posed for me for a good ten seconds. Then there was the cat man whose head was stuck in a cage dancing to some techno. Check out the videos below.






Across Westminster Bridge, we stopped to admire the towering Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament. Jeremey then went on a rant about the politicians robbing tax payers to build absolute musts such as a private moat within the parliament and fulfulling their sweet tooth by writing off Kit Kat bars. To learn more about such rip offs check out Jeremey’s rant below.






Behind the Houses of Parliament is Westminster Abby, a gem that is worth gawking over inside and out (of course for £15.00 I chose out). The Abby has been the coronation church since 1066, and 38 coronations have taken place within. Many famous people have been buried in the Abby such as Robert Burns, Charles Darwin, William Shakespeare, some of the Royal family including Mary Eleanor Bowes... that’s right a Bowes! (http://www.westminster-abbey.org/our-history/people/mary-eleanor-bowes) For me the Abby is best known as the place of Princess Diana’s wedding and funeral. I remember sadly watching the funeral service on the tele when I was 10 years old. As I walked down the streets surrounding the Abby, I tried to imagine the thousands of people that lined up to commemorate Princess Diana’s life.





Next stop Buckingham Palace, where you can witness the changing of the guards if you’re willing to line up well before 11:30 am to get a decent view. If I had more time in London (and didn’t spend my mornings trying to cure my hangovers) I probably would’ve tried to attend the spectacle. Instead I had my photo taken with a policeman, equally amusing to all tourists who visit London.







We skipped along merrily through St. James Green Park.

Jeremey rant # 2: took place in St. James’s Green Park gawking at ducks in the pond (see video below).






After duck gawking we marched along Picadilly Circus, home of window shopping for the rags and designer central for riches (I’m surprised I didn’t run into my good ole friend Barb while I was there).


Leister Square is officially my favourite place in London. The square is surrounded by little shops for tourists, restaurants / pubs such as Wetherspoons, which we stopped at for a wee pint (or two) and dinner. cinemas, galleries (The Portrait Gallery is another favourite), half price theatre tickets at the TKTS booth and more. Not to mention the piano in the middle of the square that proclaims ‘Play me’ (a project I will tell you all about next blog entry).

J D Wetherspoons is a popular and affordable restaurant / pub in the UK with 732 locations to choose from (http://www.jdwetherspoon.co.uk/pubs) and in some locations a pint will only cost you one pound! The food is fantastic for a pub meal. I decided to order good ole fish and chips, while Jeremey decided to be bold and chow down the Chicken Vindaloo, which according to the menu is their hottest curry ever – can you handle it? Watch the video below to witness Jeremey and his tongue of steel tackle the fiery dish.



After approximately 5 hours of walking, 2 hours of pub sitting and 3 pints later we reached our final destination, Nelson’s Column in Trafalgar Square. The statue stands on a column that is 151 feet tall, I struggled to climb just the base meanwhile Jeremey climbed it no problem (flashback to: grade six gym class – a weak little Ashley struggles to make it more than two feet up the rope). It turns out a few gents have actually climbed to the top of the column successfully. Johnny Dawes is a famous British climber who joined forces with Noel Craine, Jerry Moffat and Simon Nadin in 1995 to free climb Nelson’s column. It was a protest on behalf of Survival International to recognize the struggle of Canadian Inuit people.



We took an elaborate short cut back to St. Christopher’s Village, completing the loop around the River Thames. My feet ached and my thirst for more ale was growing, making it an amazing day! Walking around London can be tiring but I highly recommend it if you’re the same as me. You love to be spontaneous, go at your own pace and take many photos without ten other people standing beside you, taking the exact same photo (but its London so that happens anyway). I said my good-byes to the best tour guide in town and after a crazy day, I was ready for a crazy night. Which my friends I will tell you all about next blog entry (gotta keep you in suspense somehow...)


Outline of the route we took around the River Thames

Thanks for reading, stay tuned for my last two days in London and don’t forget to check out the photos and videos below.

Much love from London,

Ashley






Saturday, July 4, 2009

Journey to the UK (Introduction: Depature and Day One)

The plane escalates into a darken Toronto sky, and my heart pulses feeling myself being swept further and further away from my home. It was a teary departure, not wanting to turn away from Davide and my mom (the friends and family I hugged good-bye to pre-airport). They waved good-bye, smiling each time I looked back as security checked my luggage. I made a new friend instantly and that’s how I knew I would be ok. When I told people I was travelling to Scotland on my own without a soul in the city that I knew they all had the same reaction, “Wow you’re brave. I could never do it.” I had my doubts, seconded guessed why I was going time and time again. But my heart knew it was now or never. Every time I heard someone talk about travelling to a place I have never been, experiencing different cultures, seeing the photos and hearing their stories I felt so sheltered. Besides a trip to Australia with my family two years ago, I had never travelled far (and never on my own). I love Toronto and always will but I needed to try something different, something bold! I love adventures, I love exploring new places and I love to be independent. (Sings: She’s independent that’s why I love her)

So after a year of saving, saving, saving - holding down multiple jobs, staying home on the odd weekend here and there instead of going out with friends, having a garage sale with the help of my family and boyfriend. A year of dreaming, a year of planning and with the help of SWAP (an organization that acts as a support for youth who wish to live and work overseas) I was finally ready to conquer four months away from home.

I will miss my friends and family with all my heart and at times I will probably want more than anything to come home. But when London’s calling (well, actually Edinburgh’s calling) a girl must pack up her things and go! I plan to see and do as much as I can (England, Scotland, Ireland, Wales, Greece, Spain, Germany) make many new friends, find a job in a bar or restaurant and of course be inspired to write. So on Tuesday June 23rd, I waved good-bye to my friends, family, home and departed to the UK. Let the journey begin!



Testing out how to carry the luggage before I head to the airport.
What I brought:
- A backpack stuffed with clothes
- A suitcase on wheels also stuffed with clothes
- A carry-on (faux leather to fit in at London and for carrying massive 16” laptops such as mine)
- A purse to hold my passport
- Of course make-up.
- Can’t forget: my digital camera with two memory cards
- Books
- Snacks – dried fruit, granola bars, nuts, breath strips to conquer bad traveller’s breath
- My petite I-Pod shuffle that helped me actually sleep on the plane
- About £200, my credit card, Canadian Film Centre water bottle
- Recyclable bags
- Change of clothes , packed in my carry-on
- Two swimsuits
- Knickers and socks
- A few pieces of jewellery
- And last but not least a pen and paper to write my travelling woes



Suitcase and backpack stuffed with clothes galore (top), carry-on minus laptop, passport holder, and money bag (bottom)



What I wish I brought:Just the backpack full of clothes, a battery charger that works in the UK for my camera, blow dryer instead of hair straighter (also doesn’t work in the UK), travel sized beauty products, a nice dress for clubbing, more sweat pants, black t-shirt and pants for bar / restaurant work.

Seemed easy on my neighbourhood's smooth sidewalk.


Arrived at Pearson (Toronto): 7:40 pm
Checked-in: 8:00 pm

First friend made: 8:15 pm – Her name is Barb (like my mom.. hi mom!) I met her the minute I walked into the security check-in. She’s a woman in her sixties dressed in designer from head to toe, which of course raised eyes from security first in Toronto and again in Iceland. She insisted we take the shuttle to our terminal... good thing she did it seemed like a loooonng walk. When we entered the duty-free zone she went nuts trying on expensive perfume – Dior, Chanel. I made fun of her saying she’s going to stink up the entire plane. She joked that she would lure Giorgio Armani. It was nice meeting a friendly face right off the bat (even if I didn’t leave the country yet). But I was paranoid; you see among my dad’s many fatherly concerns was a warning. “Ashley do NOT under any circumstances hold anyone’s luggage! They could be smuggling drugs.” The poor woman kept complaining how heavy her carry-on was and I couldn’t even offer a hand. At one point she handed me her purse so she could squirt on some more perfume and all I could think is “My dad would kill me if he could see me right now.”

Flight departed: 9:10 PM – I sadly waved good-bye to my beautiful hometown and the people within it. I’m not going to lie it was one of the most emotional experiences in my life. I thought I wouldn’t miss Toronto until months down the line, but I missed Toronto the minute the plane wheels rolled off the ground.




I can’t believe I actually pulled this off. Here I am sitting in my hostel of St. Christopher’s Inn – The Village in the “chill” room. Groups of many different cultures partying in the bar, snacking on beer and chips, watching movies, and my New Zealand roommate who has been asleep all day long. I always imagined that I would see great things and have a great time no matter who surrounded me.
I’m all about emerging myself in the sights and sounds, taking in the culture. The way the double Decker buses zip down the left side of the road, how pedestrians seem to have the right of way... even if the vehicle was there first, free opera with a view of the Tower of London, how the London Bridge peers over the channel majestically, the architecture that dates back to before the 11th Century, the thought of the famous people that once wondered these streets the Beatles, Shakespeare, Kings, Queens, my ancestors. Then of course there are the famous people who still wonder the streets Guy Ritchie, Posh Spice, Chris Martin (who I sadly did not run into).


London Bridge (After seeing the bridge it had dawned on me... I made it to London!)



I only wondered a few blocks from my hostel, everything amazed me. What I wasn’t so amused with (and I thought I would be) was the British accents. Maybe it was the part of the city I was in but I thought I would be fascinated by every British accent I heard, half the time I barely noticed.

Getting from Heathrow to London Bridge was a major challenge. The moment I landed in London I didn’t let the excitement overcome me just yet. I knew I had a 1 hour tube ride ahead of me, combined with dragging heavy luggage along the streets of London. My family had warned me about pickpockets and their clever schemes to steal your wallet. Ryan suggested I keep my luggage wrapped around me at all times. So I was rather good at being aware of my surroundings. I encountered my first pickpocket when I was trying to find my luggage. I was walking with my carry-on over my shoulder, paying attention to signs when a sudden wave of urgency rushed over me. I looked to my left to see a middle-aged man, well dressed, walking extremely close to my purse (There was plenty of space for him to walk elsewhere). I felt his eyes on me, I turned quickly and he immediately looked away. After a few moments of staring at him coldly he began to distance himself.

I reached the information desk and asked about a shuttle from Heathrow to St. Christopher’s Inn. They informed me that it would cost £19 and I would have to wait an hour. I asked how long the tube would take and the man laughed at me. He said, “With that luggage the tube will be no good for you.” Well, being from Toronto I took this as a challenge! I would prove this Brit wrong using my ‘Toronto-ian’ survival skills and conquer the infamous London tube.



The tube in London uses different 6 zones, 12 lines, serves 270 stations to transport you virtually anywhere in London – quick and convenient. There are signs everywhere explaining each route, stating when the next train will arrive and announcements made every few minutes. It is impossible to get lost.

When I reached the ticket machine to buy a pass I had no idea where to begin. Luckily, the lost expression on my face captured the attention of a Brit boy. He gave me his day pass for free!
I met a nice British lady on the train, who kindly welcomed me by telling me about events such as Wimbledon happening in the city. After a few minutes of sitting in a fabric cushioned seat (yes that’s right) a middle-aged woman dressed in a flowing white skirt began to preach God to all who would listen. Felt like I was back in Toronto.

Located in Central London, London Bridge is the first place I got lost. Pulling along my suitcase, up and down escalators (massively high escalators – think Cineplex Odeon on Richmond St.) For the London Underground the greatest depth is 221 feet. I asked a few times for directions and still managed to get lost until I found the exit to the street (located closest to my hostel, I was trying to avoid the hot sun and manoeuvring my suitcase along the cobble stone street.) Stepping out onto the busy Borough High St. was the first time it had dawned on me, I was a long way from home. The moment quickly passed when my arm started to feel like it was going to fall off. I had to weave through a sea of people (I can’t imagine how ridiculous I probably looked). After taking a few short breaks, passing it once or twice, I had made it to the hostel...Success!. I was then greeted by a rude French-Canadian who simply took my money, said where my room was and failed to help me carry my big suitcase up the stairwell to my room. (Side note: I enjoy French-Canadians, I actually talked to him a day later and he was much nicer) Starving, hot, tired I plunged my face into my bunk bed and sulked for a total of two minutes. Then, I took a deep breath, slapped myself across the face and told myself to suck it up or go home!
After getting myself organized, speaking to a friendlier face (a very nice Australian guy) at front desk I attempted to call home. Attempt failed. I brought a calling card (I couldn’t find the one my mom gave me) but no matter how many times I tried it told me I had the wrong pin. This launched a battle between me and pay phones eating my money and pooping it out in the UK (battle: to be continued...). I arrived in London at 11:40 am... it was now 3pm. I was sure Davide (the boyfriend) and my parents were freaking out. So I managed (after also having some more bad luck) to connect to the internet and send an email ensuring them that I was alive and well.
I ordered some food from the pub at St. Christopher’s and it took forever to arrive. But, they gave me extra chips (in the UK chips = thick fries, fries = thin fries and crisps (ssss) = chips) that took up ¾ of the plate.

When I got back to my room Lisa, the coolest New Zealand girl I have ever met was awake. We chit chatted and I started to feel myself again. So I ventured out for a walk to the river to check out the London Bridge and boy was the view amazing! After taking in the scene, watching a free Opera and snapping away with my camera, I walked back to my hostel as the sunset.

Bed time: 12:30 am
Sleep: Very nice! Besides the loud karaoke blasting in the bar downstairs.
Check-out the videos and photographs on my journey from Toronto to London / Day One (Jet legged in London).
Much love from London,
Ashley